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The Luxor Obelisk in Paris – Story of an Incredible Journey (and a Big Fail)

2021 France Travel Update

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Place de la Concorde in Paris 8 is one of the 5 Royal Squares in Paris and the symbol of classic French elegance. In the center of this square stands today the Luxor Obelisk brought directly from Egypt. Built in the 13th century BC), this Egyptian monument in Paris is the oldest monument in Paris!

The Luxor Obelisk in Paris is also the world’s biggest sundial: the gnomon of this dial is the Luxor Obelisk itself, which indicates the time by its shadow. From the base of the ancient stone pillar the solstice curves, the equinox lines, and the hour lines were marked – on the pedestrian areas – with bronze-colored heat-sealed bands and – on the pavement – with 400 bronze nails.

If you are a curious wanderer, you may notice on the line of the 12th hour a small plaque with a very cryptic message ‘Au levant the THEBES surgit a PARIS le Nord’. What does this mean?

Au levant the THEBES surgit a PARIS le Nord
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The Luxor Obelisk in Paris – A Gift from Egypt to France

In 1830 the Sultan and Viceroy of Egypt Mehemet Ali decided to offer the two obelisks standing in front of the Luxor Temple to King Charles X of France. It was a gesture of friendship and gratitude for the deciphering of hieroglyphs by Champollion.

The Luxor Obelisks measure 22 meters high and weigh 220 tons each and they were built under the reign of the Pharaon Ramses II. The French King, of course, accepted the gifts.

From Thebes to Paris – The Luxor Obelisk’s Incredible Journey

Transporting the Egyptian Obelisk from Thebes in Egypt to Paris in France was not an easy task and the journey took 6 years of preparation, resources, and execution until the Luxor Obelisk arrived in Paris. The plaques on two of the faces of the now Parisian Obelisk represent the long tribulations of the Luxor Obelisk from Egypt, with the dismounting, transport, and reassembly.

A custom-made barge (The Louxor) built in the shipyards of Toulon was sailed to Egypt to load the Obelisk. This was a flat-bottomed single-use barge the dimensions of which were studied to pass through the bridges over the Seine River. To reach the Obelisk’s position in Egypt, a canal was dug by 300 men.

The Luxor Obelisk was loaded on the barge on December 19, 1831, but the crew had to wait on-site for 8 months until the water level of the River Nile was high enough for the barge to float. Then, the barge sailed the Nile and arrived in Alexandria on January 1, 1833, where the ship Sphinx was waiting to tow it to Paris through the Mediterranean Sea and then the Atlantic Ocean.

The difficult journey of the Sphinx and the Louxor

Finally, the barge with the Luxor Obelisk reached Paris on December 23, 1833. The engineer Apollinaire Lebas in charge of the Obelisk’s conveyance concluded his journey as follows: ‘The second obelisk will be convoyed by whoever wants, but it will not be me.

Choosing the Right Location for the Egyptian Obelisk in Paris

The Luxor Obelisk, however, did not find its current place in Paris until three years later. A long national debate on the monument’s location was doubled by a puritan scandal: King Louis-Philippe found the Obelisk’s base obscene!

On the base there were four baboons standing on their hind legs and raising their arms to honor the sun, proudly exposing their male anatomy capable of shocking the prude souls of the time. It was decided to build a new – less suggestive base – while the original base was dumped to the Louvre Museum.

The Parisian Obelisk’s location was decided by King Louis-Philippe. Having a monument totally strange to the History of France in Place de la Concorde, a high symbol of the French Revolution, looked like a good compromise.

The Erection of the Egyptian Obelisk in Paris (and a Big Fail)

Finally, on October 25, 1836, the Luxor Obelisk was erected on Place de la Concorde. The technical feat orchestrated by Apollinaire Lebas took place under the curious eyes of 200,000 people.

To raise the monolith vertically, an exceptional lifting device was built and it was operated by three hundred and fifty gunners and sailors. Lebas directed the maneuver in the shadow of the monolith. It was a question of honor: if the erection failed, he must not survive.

In the middle of the afternoon, the Egyptian Obelisk in Paris finally found its final vertical position at Place de la Concorde.

However, it seems that somebody did not read the Obelisk’s installation manual well (or perhaps the authorities in charge were all too busy debating about the baboons?) because the historical alignment was neglected. Indeed, the Parisian Obelisk has undergone a 90º counterclockwise rotation, and the face originally to the East has ended up in the North – what is in the East (Levant) in Thebes is now in the North in Paris.

And What Happened to the Second Luxor Obelisk?

Merci, mais non. After all the difficulties encountered with the first Luxor Obelisk, France never went to pick up the second one. It was the French President François Mitterrand who officially ‘returned’ the second obelisk to Egypt in 1981.

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