Stories of Old Montmartre Walking Tour – Map Included

While most of Paris’s monuments darken over time and require frequent renovations, the Sacré-Cœur stands out with its distinctive, pristine white appearance. How does Montmartre’s iconic symbol remain so brilliantly white?

The Sacré-Cœur was built using Château-Landon stone, the same material used for the Alexandre III Bridge and the Arc de Triomphe. This stone has a fascinating property: when it comes into contact with water, it releases a white substance (called cullet) that flows down the walls and hardens in the sun. This is the Sacré-Cœur’s secret to eternal youth and the reason it has never needed renovation!

Before the Middle Ages, a temple dedicated to the Roman god Mars stood on the site of today’s church. In the 5th century, this temple was transformed into a Merovingian chapel, surrounded by a cemetery around which a small hamlet gradually developed.

The site underwent a major transformation in the 12th century. In 1133, the Merovingian chapel was ceded to King Louis VI and Queen Adelaide of Savoy, who decided to establish a Royal Abbey of Benedictine nuns there. By 1147, the abbey had replaced the old chapel with a new Romanesque church (Saint-Pierre Church) and added additional buildings around it.

During the upheavals of the French Revolution, Saint-Pierre Church was spared while the rest of the religious buildings were completely demolished. In 1794, it was converted into a Temple of Reason, and later served as a tower for Claude Chappe’s first aerial telegraph. The church was finally restored between 1899 and 1905.

The church’s interior still shows its original Romanesque style, with the exception of the Gothic rib vault and some Gallo-Roman pieces recycled from the Merovingian chapel. Next to the church is the charming Calvary Cemetery, the oldest cemetery in Paris! The cemetery is only open to the public on a few occasions.

The hillock, topped by Saint-Pierre Church and its public square, Place du Tertre, has long kept its village atmosphere. While the village’s fame has been widely exploited – you only have to look at the souvenir shops – and often distorted, the church still feels picturesque, with its clear lines and open views.

The village of Montmartre was officially founded in 1790, with its first town hall located at 3 Place du Tertre. In the same square, a plaque on the façade of house #21 commemorates the arrival of the first automobile on Christmas Eve 1898, driven by Louis Renault. This historic moment marked the beginning of the automobile industry in France!

The local art trade has long been a tradition on the slopes of bohemian Montmartre, dating back to around 1890 when famous artists such as Modigliani, Utrillo, Valadon, and Picasso made it their home. Today, the City Council grants 140 licenses each year for a one-square-meter stall in Place du Tertre, shared by two artists on alternating schedules.

Let’s take Rue Novins, the old village’s main street. This street was referred to in the 11th century as the cart road that goes from Montmartre to Paris. The even side is lined up with 18th-century townhouses with wooden shutters, wrought iron window railings, and dormers.

At #6, you’ll find the Mère Catherine Restaurant, a cozy bistro founded in 1793. It replaced a 15th-century presbytery and quickly became a favorite spot for locals to drink and play wooden billiards. An old postcard even shows the bistro with its pool players posing proudly in front.

Now, let’s turn left onto Rue des Saules, which descends the north side of the hill. But first, don’t forget to snap a photo of Le Consulat (18 Rue Norvins), one of Montmartre’s most Instagrammable cafés.

In the 15th century, Rue des Saules was known as the Chemin de la Saussaie, winding through swampy lands where willow trees (saules in French) grew. On this walking tour of Montmartre, you’ll take the second intersection with Rue Cortot.

Today, the museum rarely crowded offers fascinating collections on the village’s history; the section on Montmartre’s cabarets is especially interesting. The setting is incredibly romantic, and from the exterior spaces, you are treated to excellent views over Montmartre’s historic vineyard. Be sure to enjoy a drink at the charming garden café, immortalized by artists like Renoir in The Swing.

After visiting the Musée de Montmartre, turn left onto Rue du Mont-Cenis. In the 12th century, this steep path – accessible only to pedestrians and mules – linked the Abbey of Saint-Denis to the Abbey of Montmartre via the northern slope of the hill. Next, turn left onto Rue Saint-Vincent, a street with a quaint, provincial feel, and stop to admire Montmartre’s famous vineyards.

By the 17th century, Montmartre wine was produced in small quantities and reserved for local consumption. A popular saying of the time poked fun at its quality and effects: “It is the wine from Montmartre – who drinks a pint, pisses a quarter of it!”

The vineyard on Rue Saint-Vincent was replanted in 1933 to prevent construction on the grounds of a former, abandoned open-air dance hall called Le Parc de la Belle Gabrielle. Today, it features the most classic varieties from France’s wine regions enhanced by decorative plantings.

Public access is not permitted, except for exceptional occasions, such as the Fête des Jardins and Montmartre’s Harvest Festival, both held in the autumn.

In the early 20th century, this charming village-style house became the heart of Montmartre’s bohemian life. Writers, artists, and intellectuals such as Dorgelès, Carco, Renoir, Courteline, Forain, Picasso, Fargue, Utrillo, Van Gogh, and Clemenceau were frequent guests. Picasso, in particular, enjoyed sitting on the terrace beneath the giant acacia with his dog, Frika.

Today, Le Lapin Agile has preserved the original warm and lively atmosphere of the historic cabarets. You can read more about it, along with other Parisian cabarets, in my quick guide to the Cabarets of Paris.

The 19th-century house at #15 marks the site of that old trough. At #2, the charming Maison Rose (point #8 on the Montmartre walking tour map), famously painted by Maurice Utrillo, has become a legendary Montmartre landmark and one of the most photographed spots in Paris.

Dalida moved to Montmartre in 1962 and bought a house at 11 bis Rue d’Orchampt. She loved Montmartre and helped in protecting the Butte.

Weakened by the loss of her former partners – many of whom had died by suicide – as well as her friend Mike Brant, the singer Dalida died on May 2, 1987, leaving France heartbroken. Her last words were reportedly, “Life is unbearable to me, please forgive me.” Dalida took her own life in her home and was buried in Montmartre Cemetery (not included in this walking tour).

You may notice that the bust of Dalida is particularly shiny in some areas – especially on the chest – making some visitors wonder why. There is no special reason for this (unlike Giulietta, Dalida does not bring luck, or love – but rather the opposite, considering her romantic life…). Please be respectful of this great artist and proud Montmartroise.

In the 17th century, a modest farm and mill – the Moulin des Brouillards – stood here, pressing Montmartre’s wine. The alley’s name, Mists Alley, may come from the morning fog created by nearby springs – or more festively, from the vapors of the wine.

In 1764, the hovel and the ruined mill were sold to a lawyer in the French Parliament who built a beautiful house, the Château des Brouillards, parts of which you can still see today on the left side. The Château comprised a farmyard, orchard, cellars, and wells, and it was a pleasant country residence.

Restoration began in the 1920s to save the Château from demolition, and today it welcomes walkers and Montmartre lovers seeking a glimpse of the Butte’s picturesque, rural past.

Created in 1926, Villa Léandre was first called Villa Junot, after the larger street nearby. Its current name comes from the caricature artist Charles Léandre, who had his studio close by. The small cobbled cul-de-sac is lined with colorful Anglo-Normand style houses, covered in climbing plants and with little front gardens.

In reality, the rock is the remains of an old fountain called La Sourcière (“the spring”), and over time the name morphed into Passage de la Sorcière (“passage of the witch”). Stories about the rock and its mysterious powers have been passed down for generations.

Today, the witch’s former mansion is the elegant Hôtel Particulier Montmartre (point #13 on the tour map), one of Paris’s most romantic addresses, with a beautiful bar. As the alley is now private, this hotel is the only way to see the Witch’s Rock up close.

Legend says that after he was beheaded (around 275), Saint-Denis washed his severed head in a spring that flowed here until the early 19th century, before continuing on to the site where he was buried – the current crypt of the Basilica of Saint-Denis. Because of this, the basilica later became the burial place for many French kings, who wanted to rest near the saint’s remains.

In the 1870s, these two windmills, their gardens, and a small farm became the site of the popular Bal du Moulin de la Galette, a lively dance hall. Every Sunday, Parisians flocked here to dance the polka, quadrille, and French cancan.

By the 1900s, the Moulin de la Galette had become a favorite spot for painters, designers, and actors alike. Artists such as Renoir, Toulouse-Lautrec, and Picasso immortalized its lively atmosphere in their paintings.

This sculpture, Le Passe-Muraille, is inspired by a short story by Marcel Aymé written in 1943: “An excellent man named Dutilleul had the extraordinary gift of walking through walls without any trouble.” It’s a charming tribute to the writer, who lived in Montmartre for 40 years.

From there, return to the junction with Rue Girardon and take Rue d’Orchampt down to Place Émile Goudeau. Along the way, you can spot Dalida’s house at 11bis Rue d’Orchampt and some picturesque artist studios.

Pablo Picasso arrived on the Butte at 19 and set up a workshop at the Bateau-Lavoir in 1904. Here, he created the final works of his Blue Period, the Pink Period inspired by Fernande Olivier, and Les Demoiselles d’Avignon (1907), a groundbreaking step toward Cubism.

In 1970, a devastating fire destroyed most of the building. Today, only the facade survives, protected as a historical monument.

Nearby, don’t miss the Church of Saint-Jean de Montmartre (1894–1904), designed by Anatole de Baudot. He introduced the idea of socially and economically conscious architecture in harmony with the industrial development of the time. In this building, he blended industrial materials, creating (in my opinion) a beautiful result.

Nearby, in Square Jean Rictus (point #20 on the Montmartre walking tour map), you can see the famous Love Wall, but it is always swarming with people. Instead, make your way to its back corner to discover the hidden Jardin des Abbesses, a lovely small oasis in Montmartre.

After the Love Wall, this Montmartre walk ends at the picturesque café Le Vrai Paris at 33 Rue des Abbesses (#21 on the map) for a more than deserved drink and quick eats.

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